On the Trail Illegal Hunters Illegally Trapping China's Endangered Singing Birds.
Silva Gu's gaze sweeps across miles of dense fields, searching for suspicious activity in the early morning gloom.
He speaks in less than a whisper as the team seeks a place of cover in the fields. Behind us, the sprawling city of Beijing slumbers on. During the vigil, we hear only our own breath.
And then, as the sky begins to brighten with the approaching day, we hear footsteps. The poachers are here.
Caught
In the skies above us, billions of birds, many so small that they can fit in the palm of your hand, are migrating south for winter.
They have benefited from the extended daylight in Siberia, or Mongolia, eating bugs and berries. As the year comes to a close and chilling gusts bring the initial freeze of winter, they journey to southern locales to find food and shelter.
China is home to 1500-plus bird species, which is about thirteen percent of the planet's species – over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Several of the major migration routes they follow converge in China.
This particular field where we were, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – any further and the urban landscape offer scant chance to rest among forests of concrete.
It is also an oasis for the poachers and their "barely visible nets", so thin you can barely see them.
A net we almost encountered was stretched across a large section of the field and held up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a small finch was struggling frantically to free his legs, but the more it moved, the more its feet got ensnared.
It was a protected songbird, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – that means if its numbers are thriving, so is its ecosystem.
Tracking the Trappers
This activist, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many nights of sleep to rescue birds, and he has spent the last decade urging the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"Back in 2015, there was little interest," he states.
So he recruited volunteers who were concerned and formed a group called the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He organized public meetings and invited the heads of the local police and forestry bureau. These consistent and determined acts of advocacy have shown results. The police discovered that apprehending illegal hunters also led to tracking down other kinds of criminal activity.
"It became clear our goals were partially aligned," Silva says, adding the caveat that implementation remains inconsistent.
This fascination with birds started in childhood. He grew up in the nineties in a much changed capital.
He remembers wandering in the grasslands on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This expansion meant grasslands were considered empty places to build, not sanctuaries to preserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I chose this direction," he says.
This has not made for an simple journey. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was under scrutiny by Silva and retaliated.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva remembers. He says he went to the police but the perpetrators were not held accountable.
He has also lost his team of helpers over the years. This work requires patience and night vigils. Silva says not many are prepared for the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"My life is devoted to this," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must give it your all. You can't do it part-time."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan annually – but funding has declined because of the economic situation.
So he has developed new ways to track the poachers.
He studies satellite imagery to find the paths created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The satellite images can even show netting setups which can capture hundreds of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species command a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now quite wealthy."
While there are environmental regulations in place, Silva believes the fines to deter the activity do not exceed the financial benefits of trapping and trading songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was – and for some people in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This originates from the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build ornate bamboo cages for their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among older individuals in their later years. Silva says older Chinese people may not understand they are committing a wildlife crime, or grasp that numerous birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a pet.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have inherited the practice of caging birds," he says. "China developed so fast, there was little opportunity to educate people about ecology. Once adults' values are set, they're really hard to change."
Busted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a trader has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
Another man stands outside a local market holding a bird cage shrouded in a black veil. He tells passers-by quietly that his songbird is valuable, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an old Beijing where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The path alongside the water stretches for several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were people looking at everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be bought in a small park. It was easy to find.
Loud music played from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were choreographing a fan dance. Close by several men, all in their later years, had gathered with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But on this occasion there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were questioning the bird owners and recording details. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his